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Hawke’s Bay: food, adventure and dramatic views

by Caroline Gladstone | 18 Apr 2013

Read The Great Gatsby and dreamed of experiencing life in the 1920s? Look no further than Hawke’s Bay, home to the Art Deco capital of the world. 

A half-dozen unspoilt beaches, vineyards and wineries by the score, dramatic volcanic topography, fine food, art galleries, and vistas of the snow-capped mountains to the west: Hawke’s Bay gathers all of the best bits of New Zealand into one small region on the east coast of the North Island.

Hawke’s Bay also has something unique: Napier, the Art Deco capital of the world. The bayside city, obliterated by a massive 7.9 earthquake and fire in February 1931, was rebuilt within two years of the disaster, in the fashionable architectural style of the day. Today, Napier basks in its Art Deco glory and UNESCO World Heritage status.

Visitors are greeted at the Information Centre and Art Deco Shop by guides dressed for a West Egg party at Gatsby’s house. In their roaring 20s costumes, they whisk visitors away on walking tours and vintage car rides to view buildings that look as if they have come straight from a Hollywood movie set.

Take a hike

Beyond Napier, Hawke’s Bay has plenty to tantalise the outdoor fan, culture-lover and foodie. To put the region, stretching 100km from north to south and just as far to the west, into perspective, take a drive, cycle or hike to the top of stunning Te Mata Peak.

A bulbous plateau rising 399m, Te Mata is said to resemble the sleeping giant of mythology. The 360-degree views from the top take in the Pacific Coast, verdant valleys of vines crisscrossed by rivers and the snow-capped Ruahine Ranges. On a clear day, there may even be glimpses of the smoking volcano of Mt Ruapehu.

Ride baby, ride

For the more adventurous, quad bike tours over volcanic hills and expeditions to the world-famous gannet colony at Cape Kidnappers also offer magnificent views of Mother Nature’s handiwork.

Cape Kidnappers is a spectacular promontory at the end of more than 8km of dramatic cliffs. It is named after the 1769 clash between Maoris and the crew of Captain Cook’s Endeavour over the perceived kidnapping of a local boy.

Nesting on huge rocks at the shoreline and on a roped-off plateau high above the ocean is the world’s largest onshore colony of gannets – 20,000 large white birds with black-eyed markings and golden crowns, which spend months at the cape, feeding their chicks and teaching fledglings to fly. 

Tours take visitors to the very edge of a precipice to view the birds’ antics – the gannet recognition dance that each bird performs to find its mate among the throng is lovely to watch – or along the shoreline in a huge tractor-drawn trailer.

Culture vulture?

Adventures in the great outdoors are balanced by an abundance of cultural pursuits ranging from dining in chic restaurants, shopping at farmers’ markets and browsing the many craft stores and galleries.

Hawke’s Bay Museum & Art Gallery is set to reopen in 2013 following a multi-million dollar upgrade, showcasing a rich Maori history, the story of the 1931 earthquake and the birth of the Art Deco movement in Paris.