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24 hours in Prague

by Veronica Matheson | 30 May 2013

The capital of the Czech Republic has thrown off its drab Communist image to become one of Europe’s liveliest cities.

See

Prague Castle's guards look dashing in powder blue uniforms designed by Pierre Cardin – perhaps the reason that Czech authorities installed protective rails around the guards’ sentry boxes. The Castle complex, high on a hill, includes St Vitus Cathedral and Strahov Monastery with its rare collection of illuminated manuscripts.

Wander down from the Castle through Golden Lane where artisans and writers such as Franz Kafka lived, to the pedestrian-only Charles

Bridge over the Vltava River where artists, buskers and an organ grinder vie for attention beside statues of kings, emperors and saints that line the stone bridge with its gothic towers at each end.

Head to the Old Town Square to join crowds on the hour as the medieval astronomical clock goes through its mechanical paces on the tower of the Old City Hall. The historic square is surrounded by romanesque, gothic and baroque buildings.

Wenceslas Square is a wide boulevard similar to Paris’ Champs Elysees where pavement cafes abound beside stalls selling traditional sausages that are so tasty. Sit with coffee or cold beer and watch young ones strutting in the latest fashion which can be remarkably brief in summer.

Take a short metro ride to suburban Zizkov where grey communist housing blocks are fast being converted into stylish apartments. Don’t miss the TV tower with its art installation by controversial Czech artist David Czerny that features faceless babies crawling up the tower’s pylons.

Eat

Morning

After starting the day with the hotel breakfast buffet, have a decadent pastry break later at the art deco Le Louvre cafe at Narodni 22, a favourite with writers such as Kafka.

Afternoon

With so much to see, have a quick lunch at one of the stalls lining one side of the

Old City Square – you'll have to choose between sausages, baked dough twists coated in cinnamon, or savoury and sweet pancakes. Otherwise check out Kolkovna Restaurant, also in the Old Town, for honest Czech food and beer at reasonable prices.

Night

For dinner feast on Czech fare at Plzenska Restaurant, a lively beer hall with traditional entertainment amid sturdy baronial decor in Namesti Republiky 5. It is in the basement of The Municipal House, built a century ago in art nouveau style as a major concert hall with ornate domes, murals, and stained glass highlights.

Later

Have a nightcap at a rooftop bar such as U Prince Terrace in the Old Town Square, where the astronomical clock is at eye level beside rooftop vistas. Bars and music clubs with catchy names such as SaSaZu and Double Trouble abound across the city.

Stay

Hotels around Wenceslas Square are always close to the action.

Radisson Blu Alcron Hotel at Stepanska 40, is one of the city’s luxe places to stay, mixing art deco style with modern conveniences and attentive staff. Its Alcron restaurant is Michelin-starred, while its La Rotonde restaurant is an award winner. There is also a lively Be Bop bar and glass-roofed crystal ballroom, and most public areas have glittering chandeliers and rich wood fi nishes. The fitness area has a sauna and offers spa treatments, and there is free internet throughout.

One of the newest hotels in Prague, the Fushion at Panski 9 is cool and practical and describes itself as cheap chic and budget-boutique. It has the contemporary look of a freshly fi tted out warehouse with an industrial finish to fittings throughout. The hotel’s 360-degree cocktail bar revolves without an exterior view, but there is an outdoor terrace to take in the night lights. A quiet corner offers communal shisha smoking through exotic looking water-pipes, and there is a skype room for free face-to-face contact with friends around the world.

Join crowds on the hour as the medieval astronomical clock goes through its paces.

5 things you need to know about Prague

  1. The city’s cobblestones are hard on the feet so try sightseeing on a Segway (personal transporter) that does all the walking.
  2. Crime is low in Prague, but pickpockets do operate in crowded tourist areas.
  3. Souvenirs are plentiful from wooden puppets to handworked lace, Bohemian crystal, and T-shirts with the predictable slogan ‘Czech it out’.
  4. Beer connoisseurs rate the Czech brew one of the best in the world and Czechs are rated the world’s biggest beer drinkers – although taking it slow, they still put a lot away.
  5. Czechs love dancing – one curvy building is nicknamed the Fred and Ginger apartments as it is shaped like a dancing couple.