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Escape to paradise

by Jill Park | 18 Nov 2015

 

Ubud may be known as the setting of film and book, Eat, Pray, Love, but there’s more to this Balinese town than expats on a search for self-discovery. From stylish shops and spas to lush rice paddies and art, here’s how to get the best of both worlds. 

Rest and relaxation

Ubud is spa central. For the full day spa experience, head to Sang Spa 2 (Jl. Jembawan No. 13B, Desa Padang Tegal, Kec.). Its ‘Eat, Pray, Love’ package combines a heavenly four-hand massage, body scrub, facial and your choice of hair treatment or manicure or pedicure – all treatments that regularly appear on the spa menus – with a delicious lunch served in their quiet garden. Remember, many spas offer free hotel pick-up services, so make sure you book ahead via email or phone (ask your hotel) to avoid disappointment. Alternatively, greet the day with a sunrise yoga class at the Ubud Yoga House (1) (Jl. Subak Sokwayah) located in the middle of Ubud’s rice fields, take a walk back into town for breakfast. Expat haven Kafe (Jalan Hanoman 44b, Padang Tegal) offers the perfect mix of delicious, healthy food and great coffee. The venue also regularly holds events, such as Balinese dance classes.

Beyond the boundaries

Away from the cosmopolitan hubbub of the centre of town is the opportunity to sample more traditional Bali life. The Campuhan Bridge extends from the Gunung Lebah Temple up into the hills circling the town. The well-tended track is worth exploring in the morning before things heat up.

At the top of the ridge is the village of Bankiang Sidem, home to local painters and jewellers and a few unassuming cafes. It is here that you will find Karsa Spa (Jl. Bangkiang Sidem). Treatments combine reiki and massage with local Ayurvedic and organic products. Time your treatment right and you can enjoy the sunset from the adjoining Karsa Kafe. Those wishing to build up a sweat should follow the road (Jl. Raya Panestanan) that winds uphill behind the Blanco Renaissance Museum and through the artist’s village of Penestanan, before making your way onto the Sayan Terrace Hotel (Jl. Raya Sayan) – the Hemingway-style home of 1930s author Colin McPhee – for breakfast overlooking the river valley below.

Eat drink and be merry

The jewel in the crown of Ubud’s coffee plantations is kopi luwak – the famed coffee made from the coffee beans retrieved from the stools of civet cats. ‘Agro tourism’ plantation, Bali Pulina (Br. Pujung Kelod, Tegallalang, Gianyar), is located about 11 kilometres from Ubud in Pujung Kelod village next to the famed Tegalalang Rice Terraces (2). Combine a morning climbing the terraces (keep small notes on you for donations to access them) with a visit to the plantation. Entry is free and includes demonstrations of the traditional coffee-making process with a serious taste testing (ginger coffee anyone?). Kopi luwak is available for 50,000 Rupia (AU$5). Most small cafes (known as ‘warungs’) serve Indonesian favourites, nasi goreng, and bebek goreng, alongside western fare. It’s worth visiting Kafe Batan Waru (Dewi Sita Street) for their Sunday night satay specials. For something different, visit Warung Garasi (Jl. Monkey Forest, opposite Hotel INATA) and enjoy local fare at a fraction of the price of the more tourist-y restaurants (and you get to sit on Vespas, too). For something a bit stronger, head back to Ubud and check out Bar Luna (Jl. Raya Ubud), the latest offering from Melbourne native Janet De Neefe, an authority on Indonesian cuisine and founder of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival. Happy hour is between 5-7pm nightly, where you can grab two-for-one cocktails for a mere $8. The pineapple and kaffir lime margarita is worth the trip alone. Films and live music are also a regular feature. Eat in the bar or venture upstairs to Casa Luna for the full restaurant menu. Remember to order a slice of cake to finish – the place has a well-deserved reputation for its sweet offerings and barista coffee