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Ports of Portugal

by Brian Johnston | 16 Jan 2014

The Douro is a compact yet pleasure-packed river featuring old towns, dramatic landscapes and magnificent vineyards.

Setting out

The ancient Romans knew a lovely location when they saw one. Two thousand years ago they found a delightful spot on the Douro River, founded Porto and planted vines.

Their town eventually gave its name to the wine produced here (port) and a new country, Portugal.

Today, Portugal’s second-largest city is the starting point for a river cruise along the Douro and a worthy destination itself.

In this World Heritage-listed medieval town, ocean and river trade funded many a library, museum and art treasure over the centuries, and Porto’s churches overflow with gold from the Americas.

Locals sit in ancient squares licking ice cream, old ladies water geraniums in blue-tiled patios, and young people congregate in cafes along the waterfront.

Stay for a couple of days before cruising, as Porto has an excellent range of hotels.

Passengers board their cruise vessels at Vila Nova de Gaia just across the river from Porto. The impressive iron bridge across the water was designed by Gustav Eiffel and is one of six bridges.

It is on this far bank that the city’s famous wine lodges are located, many of which are open for tastings and tours.

Port has arrived here from all along the Douro Valley, to be aged and blended, since the 17th century.

On board

Because of the Douro’s short navigable length – just 200km to Barca d’Alva on the Spanish border – cruises make a return journey to Porto, stopping at some sights on the outward leg, others on the return.

Despite its petite size, the river packs in natural beauty and cultural attractions. Castles brood from the heights and ancient farms cling to the steep slopes as if about to tumble into the valley. Framing the river, an endless series of stone terraces supports vines, almond trees and silvery olives.

Among the shore excursions, Lamego is an old bishopric with a splendid array of baroque buildings and an 11th century castle. Streets are crammed with bell towers and dripping fountains, while leering gargoyles hold balconies up on their shoulders. The town, topped by the ornate Sanctuary of

Our Lady of Remedies, is an important place of pilgrimage.

Another of the river’s highlights is Mateus Palace, whose impressive baroque facade is reflected in ponds.

The palace gardens are shaded by giant cypress trees and surrounding vineyards produce Mateus wine, one of Portugal’s most famous labels.

As you glide past Pinhão, you’re in the heart of winemaking country on a stretch of riverbank generally considered to have the best of soil and climate conditions in the region.

The riversides look particularly wonderful in September, when the leaves of the vines turn orange and gold. River cruises stop off at the Vintage House Wine Academy so that passengers can learn more about the history of port and taste a drop or two.

Nearby is the medieval hilltop village of Castelo Rodrigo which is surrounded by almond trees and has truly splendid views over the river.

This is a quiet little town, although behind shuttered windows as you stroll the streets, you hear the sounds of lunch being prepared and children doing their homework.