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Floating through England

by Alison Plummer | 14 Feb 2013

Narrow Boat in EnglandThe UK’s canal network was established to transport coal and pottery between the industrial centres of the north and midlands, and its legacy is a leisure cruising option that’s a wonderful way to see the heart of England.

Cruise the Avon Ring

The cruising routes are divided into rings and the Avon Ring includes some great towns and beautiful scenery, not to mention the waterside pubs that feature on all canal routes.

It’s about a 180km journey with more than 130 locks so you could do this in a week, but it would mean cruising all day – set aside at least two weeks instead and you will be able to see the beautiful country along the way.

You could begin at Stratford-upon-Avon, where canal boat moorings are slap bang in the middle, near the Royal Shakespeare Company Theatres and close to cafes such as Carluccio’s and pubs such as the Encore and the Dirty Duck.

Bidford-on-Avon is down-river from Stratford with a pretty, if narrow, bridge and moorings on both sides. Walk into town to find a decent bakery and pubs, and check out the The Bridge riverside brasserie.

Further on at Evesham, the Upper Avon ends and the Lower Avon Navigation Trust takes over. Visitor moorings are available on the right before Evesham Lock, manned by a keeper who can issue a licence if you don’t have one.

Moorings are also available near the Workman Bridge. Curry lovers can choose between Indian restaurants on Waterside close to the bridge and the stylish Regal Cinema with a cafe/wine bar and comfy cinema seats.

Cruising on past Pershore with its Georgian streetscape, then the pretty countryside of Bredon Hill to historic Tewkesbury, you’ll reach the last lock on the Avon before the River Severn.

Next, take a right-hand turn towards Worcester, stopping at the lovely town of Upton-on-Severn to visit the fascinating map shop and plenty of pubs and cafes. Worcester itself is famous for the magnificent Worcester Cathedral, the Royal Worcester Porcelain Museum and the Commandery museum.

As you keep cruising, you will need to go through 58 locks between Worcester and Tardebigge Top Lock, but the views to the Malvern Hills will help to compensate. After that, cruise on through tunnels and Birmingham, then take the right hand turn into the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal.

Keeping right, look for the interesting cottages, pubs and three iron aqueducts then the best of Warwickshire and villages such as Wilmcote, home of Mary Arden’s House (Shakespeare’s mother). Then there are just 15 more locks to go to Stratford.

What is a narrow boat?

The UK’s colourful ‘narrow boats’ are so-called because they are designed for locks just 2.1m wide.

There’s understandable confusion between barges and narrow boats as they are similar in design, but the latter are built to fit the narrow locks, while the wider cargo barges simply don’t fit.

‘Narrow boat’ is the traditional term, although ‘narrowboat’ is also used. Never call them longboats; the Vikings arrived in those!

Originally horses towed the boats from towpaths, moving 50 times the cargo they could on land.

Cruising narrow boats are built along the lines of the original working boats, and decoration is a key element. Roses and castles were the choice in the 19th century, and today you can buy souvenirs and check out new designs, including trompe l’oeil – a style that uses perspective to create optical illusions – and graffiti.

Boats can’t climb hills, so locks are used to control water levels to lift or lower boats, and are usually operated by the cruiser. Locks have a set of gates at each end and a chamber in the middle to lift and lower your boat as the water level rises or falls. You open and close the paddles, and the gates open when the water level is equal on both sides. It all takes approximately 10-20 minutes.

Be prepared

Narrow boats come well equipped and in a choice of sizes: a 45ft boat to sleep two to four people and a 70ft boat sleeping 12.

They are fitted with toilets, fully equipped galleys and televisions. There are many towns and villages along the way for shopping and coffee stops, and plenty of waterside pubs.

When you are packing, use bags instead of suitcases and include warm layers to peel off or add, wet-weather gear, and non-slip walking shoes. Also, you aren't spending all day and night nice and cosy in a plush hotel; don't forget long-sleeved shirts, sun hats, sunscreen and torches.

Thinking about taking a trip? Find out more about Probus Rendezvous, Retreats and Travel Insurance.