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South Pacific isles

by Caroline Gladstone | 20 Feb 2014

Much like Adventures in Paradise, the waters of the South Pacific sparkle and there’s so much to see cruising around the islands.

 

As I sit aboard the MS Paul Gauguin, I’m gripped with excitement as we set sail from Papeete on a seven-night cruise in paradise.

We’re heading for the Society Islands, one of the five archipelagos of French Polynesia, to drop anchor at little-known Raiatea and Tahaa, stunning Bora Bora and majestic Moorea.

Every one of the 338 berths on this gleaming white vessel is full, for a sea voyage is still the best way to visit these gorgeous isles. A floating hotel with meals provided, it's also an affordable way to explore this notoriously big-ticket destination.

Slow cruise

The 19,200-tonne Gauguin has been operating year-round itineraries in these waters since her launch in 1998. Despite the idyllic blue expanse that surrounds us, the waters are a navigational challenge due to the many hazardous reefs and the narrow passes connecting the ocean to the calm lagoons.

On my first morning I step out onto my cabin balcony to watch our arrival at Raiatea, the second largest island in the Society group after Tahiti, on a seriously sleepy Sunday morning.

Raiatea is considered the cradle of Polynesian culture, having been settled more than 1000 years ago by intrepid sailors who migrated south from Asia.

Culture vulture?

Before embarking on a 4WD tour to the island’s volcanic crater and its ancient temples where human sacrifices are said to have occurred, we gather in the ship’s showroom for a special treat. A group of local children arrives for a concert of harmonious singing and frenetic hip-swaying, accompanied by an adult who interprets the dances for us.

It’s the first of many cultural performances on the ship, a vessel not only adorned with Polynesian artefacts but memorabilia associated with its namesake, French post-impressionist artist Paul Gauguin, including two of his original etchings preserved under glass.

Blue lagoon

We spend a heavenly day on the tiny islet of Motu Mahana, snorkelling in the translucent water, drinking mai tais from coconut shells and feasting on a barbecue lunch to the strains of Tahitian songstresses and ukuleles.

This is a hard act to top, until we squeeze through a tiny pass to anchor in Bora Bora the next morning. The bluest lagoon I’ve ever seen is laid out in front of us; the pundits say it has seven shades of blue and, ever since its beauty was extolled by James A. Michener in the 1940s, it has drawn romantics and adventurers aplenty.

Our final destination, Moorea, exudes a rugged grandeur. From our anchorage in Cook’s Bay, one of two spectacular bays carved into the northern side of the heart-shaped island, I am mesmerised by the majesty of Mt Mouaputa and the shark-toothed shape of Mt Mouaroa.

Later, as we stand on the lofty Belvedere Lookout, reached via a steep road that winds past lush pineapple plantations, we see our ship sitting pretty in the bay.

Close up on… Bora Bora

Nothing beats the beauty of the Bora Bora lagoon; no postcard does it justice. Whatever you do on this lovely island, you must dip into its gorgeous watery expanse. If you ever manage to drag yourself out of the water, take a thrilling 2.5-hour jet ski tour.

Skimming around the main island, dominated by the hulky shape of Mt Otemanu, you’ll fly past luxury resorts and sandy beaches, and then flop back into the most deliciously cool water on a private motu (islet) while the guides rustle up a coconut and pineapple snack.

Another adrenaline hit is a half-day ray-feeding, shark encounter and snorkel tour aboard a zippy motorboat.

Animal lovers will relish the chance to pet and even cuddle the friendly stingrays in waist-deep water, and later don snorkel and mask to dive in and watch the underwater shark-feeding show.