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The heart of Turkey

by Ian McIntosh | 03 Jun 2014

In Turkey, go back in time at the Sultan’s palace, bathe in Ottoman bathhouses, haggle with the best and visit Gallipoli's Anzac landmarks.

Istanbul, Turkey

See

Overlooking the Bosphorus and Golden Horn, Topkapi Palace was the famous home to generations of sultans and their wives. Touring the harem costs extra. 

With its six minarets and sweeping architecture the Sultan Ahmed Mosque is an amazing sight from any angle. An ancient wonder of the world, it’s called the Blue Mosque by Europeans because of the 21,000 Iznik tiles that adorn the interior walls. Don’t forget to cover up.

Forgotten for centuries the Basilica Cistern was part of a complicated system of bringing drinking water to the city. Of particular interest are the Roman columns supporting the roof and an amazing set once used in a James Bond movie.

Visiting bathhouses is a must. Try the Ayasofya Hurrem Sultan Hamami, designed and built by Mimar Sinan, the chief Ottoman architect, at the request of the wife of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent.

Everyone loves to shop and haggle – and that’s what has been going on at the The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul since 1461. Meet some of the most enthusiastic salesmen on the planet as you head into one of the largest covered markets in the world, with 60 streets and 5000 shops.

Eat

Istanbul comes alive in the evenings. As you wander you will soon find streets of restaurants offering delicious local food.

Head to Vezirhan Cd, a main road in Sultanahmet, where there are a number of energetic waiters enticing you to sit down at their tables. Everything from grilled vegetables to casseroles is available – washed down with the strong local red wine.

A special treat is traditional tea in the shady Topkapi Gardens overlooking the Bospherous and also try the barbecued fish burgers at the markets by the ferry terminal.

For your sweet tooth, temptation lurks everywhere. Lokum, or Turkish Delight still dominates the myriad of sweet and pastry shops in the streets, and you will see huge blocks of it in every imaginable incarnation. It ranges from a harder, chewy, nougat-style gel texture to the more familiar soft jelly dusted with sugar.

Go to The Grand Bazaar for the shopping, but stay for the food. While the eateries in the world’s oldest shopping mall aren’t as glamorous as you can find outside, there are definitely a few diamonds in the rough. Explore the quieter back alleys and interior courtyards for where the locals eat. The holes in the wall that don’t look too appealing usually have the most delectable food.

Stay

The Antea Hotel right in the heart of Sultanahmet was completely renovated in 2013. The 43-room, family-run property is clean and surprisingly elegant. Internet is free and the restaurant/bar is available throughout the day. Relax on the top floor terrace and enjoy the local
Turkish specialties.

The Four Seasons Hotel at Sultanahmet is considered Istanbul’s most premier address. Created from a Turkish prison and steps from Topkapi Palace, the hotel boasts just 65 guest rooms and suites. You’ll be surrounded by Turkish artwork in a contemporary hotel, transporting you back to the Byzantine days.

If you’d prefer something a little bit artsy, The Poem Hotel features rooms named after well-known Turkish poets. Plus, there’s a beautiful, tranquil garden at the back where you can enjoy a lovely read. The hotel is minutes from the Fountain of Sultan Ahmed III and close to the Basilica Cistern.

Empress Zoe is situated just around the corner from the Four Seasons at Sultanahmet, offering the same convenient location at a fraction of the price. The hotel surrounds two deliciously quaint courtyards, one of them backing onto the ruins of a Turkish bath.

Go to Gallipoli

Lone Pine Anzac memorial

After carefully researching a trip to Anzac Cove, two points emerged clearly. Firstly, if you want to really explore the key battle sites and local museums you need to spend two nights at the nearby seaside town of Canakkale. Secondly, the best way to get there and back is using the local bus service.

You can do a day trip from Istanbul but the bus travel alone takes 12 hours.

The final sector of the trip is by ferry, taking you right into the heart of one of the prettiest towns in Turkey, set on a perfect horseshoe bay. We strolled past fishermen selling the catch of the day, open-air bars and even a monster replica of the Horse of Troy.

The next day we were picked up by Kenan Celik OAM, who took us to the village of Bigoli where Attaturk lived.

From here we traced the Gallipoli campaign. The full horror of the failed attempt to take Turkey dawns when you read that 3268 Australians were hastily buried in mass graves.

We did get one smile as we toured the new memorial site where anniversary celebrations are held. A big old yellow dog called Anzac came to greet us.

"We know that so many of these boys would have loved a dog as much as their horses," Kenan said.

Now they have Anzac - we left him dozing.

Five fast facts

  1. Under the Ottoman Empire, Istanbul was renowned for having more than 1400 public toilets.
  2. Despite being the symbol of Holland, tulips originated in Istanbul.
  3. Murder on the Orient Express by Agatha Christie was written at Pera Palace Hotel in Istanbul.
  4. Istanbul is the only city in the world to stand on two continents – Asia and Europe.
  5. Istanbul has the third oldest subway in the world, beaten only by London and New York. 

It's time to start planning your 2015 trip to mark 100 years since the Gallipoli campaign, visiting Lone Pine, the Nek, North Bridge and Artillery Road. And don't forget your travel insurance. Probus Travel Insurance is tailored for active retirees and provides cover for adventurers up to age 100. Of course, terms and conditions apply. Find out more.